Tip 5: Stop your barking dog and seek professional help:

The day you buy your dog, it brings the responsibility and commitment to meet the needs of that dog. Ensuring that your dog stops barking, and making sure you get help if your dog has a behavior problem associated with the bark.

You do this by calling a dog whisperer, dog behaviorist or dog trainer. This will guide you in finding a suitable solution for you and your dog, taking into account the opportunities that are available.

Yes, yes, I hear you, you do not have to tell me, "Grandpa, stop complaining" ... so I'll give you an extra tip. A tip from the secret box of a dog whisperer.

As a dog whisperer it is not always easy to find a solution that takes into account the character of the dog. And yet I feel this is just the challenge that makes my job so exciting.

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Moreover, the curiosity always excites in me when I get called.

Therefore, a secret trick you can give you back the pride of owning a your pup.

Just one example, and no, no more stories that could have possibly happened. This really happened and I am proud that I was able to solve it so plain and simple.

You may have already read on the website that Jenn came to us from Spain. Well, Jenn was completely down. She had totally lost confidence. So every wrong action, how can I explain it ... could mean the end of the sparkle of the bond we were creating.

My girlfriend and I have a habit of sometimes going out. Yes, who does not. But every time we got home, Jenn was barking at the door.

Okay, admittedly, handy if there are intruders, but less useful for the neighbors.

Knowing Right, the moment when I take control of this situation and I learn Jenn clearly, precisely and exactly the behavior I expected from her.

Hmm, sounds familiar, not?

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Here it comes, the secret ... The secret that I myself have experienced training with INTERNATIONAL MAJOR TOP TRAINERS that compete every year at Crufts for obedience, agility and doggy-dance walk, but also manage to win every year and this already for more than a decade.

It took me exactly one week to stop Jenn barking. And I know you'll read the following paragraphs, perhaps a few times because it lies in the details of the technique. But you asked me to give tips and this is a tip where I as a dog whisperer earn money. And believe me, it comes to sensitively, precisely orchestrated solutions, I am worth more than every penny.

For this solution, you'll need 4 things: sweets (to maintain the focus of the dog, no, not as a reward - perhaps in a later article for details), a toy that your dog loves it (Jenn + ball = love) perseverance and a lot of patience.

I learned Jenn barking on command. In other words, I say, "barking" and Jenn barks. If she does that properly, I give her a piece of candy. So, she knows that her focus is correct. After a number of times practicing properly, Jenn gets her reward. We play with the bal.This took five days.Then I was sure I could say always and everywhere, "barking" and Jenn started barking.

Knowing Right, Jenn now know in what situation she's expected to barking. First part success.

Now, just unlearn when no longer to bark. And this I have done on a quiet weekday ... I came home in the car, went to the front door ... and Jenn started barking.

She continues to bark when I came in. I waited patiently without making eye contact, even without giving her any attention until she stopped barking.

At the time she relaxes completely, I give her the command "bark", Jenn barks, I give the candy. This command I repeat two times. After that I played with her as a reward.

Now I go out, drove the same car away, came back and repeated the scenario ... Jenn barks relaxes command, sweet, command, sweet, command, sweet, just play ...

So I drove away 12 times, so I came back 12 times ...

Only the 12e time Jenn barked NO MORE. She was already relaxed when I came through the door. I gave the command, sweet, command, sweet, command, sweet, just play ...

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Ha, ha, won. Of course I can talk about this solution for a long time with many veterinarians and dog behavior psychologists ... It works, period (and I know why it works). And the solution comes from international dog trainers, competing all over the world.

There are incredible and amazing dog-secrets only known by actual dog whisperers because they for decades they intensively and passionately work  every day work with dogs, discovering by chance secrets. And these secrets they just give to the next generation of top trainers and dog whisperers.

And that's why it pays to turn to a dog whisperer to find Knowing Right-solutions for barking dogs.

Have confidence, create a powerful bond with your dog

Bryan

PS If you still want more information about North Vancouver Knowing Right Dog Psychology Center, click here.

Tip 4: Stop the barking dog, challenge him mentally and physically:

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Excessive barking is usually the result of pent-up energy. If this is so, then the solution is simple: make sure the dog uses that energy in a more productive way.

Hey, do you walk your dog daily? Or, do you let him fetch a ball? Barking

while you play with your dog is quite ok, enjoy it.

For the more energetic dogs, and this is so with my dogs, there are still major challenges out their. Mentally fun for your dog!

Daphne, our bearded collie and Jenn, our ... well she's not a purebred dog, I train daily to participate in obedience competitions.

Fun is the key word. I enjoy every activity with my dogs every day. It's bonding while mentally and physically challenging them.

Because, when difficult situations occur, the strength of the bond you have with your dog will make him trusts and follow you completely. Knowing Right!

Have confidence, create a powerful bond with your dog

Bryan

PS If you still want more information about North Vancouver Knowing Right Dog Psychology Center, click here.

 

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Go to Tip 5

Tip 3: How to ask your dog to stop barking:

If your dog continues to bark over again and again; same toy, person, situation, or place? Then you have to make yourself powerful, and claim that incentive as your own. In other words, you have the right to bark and you deprive your dog this barking right.

Use your body language, your mind, and your calm-assertive energy as it were, creating an invisible wall that your dog cannot cross. Do this with 100% dedication and focus, and the result might perhaps surprise you.

This solution is a little difficult for someone who has already a barking dog. But it is the one I use as a dog whisperer, dog behaviorist, to prevail with dogs that are out of order.

Let me coach you through the steps. My girlfriend who primarily gives training to people explained to me how I actually did this. Because, I did it, I just did not know how exactly I had explain the simple steps.

Until one night we sat down to talk about a coaching I did that day and she told me: "Oh, that reminds me ... so that's the way you do it probably?" Well, not completely, but her answer gave me clear enough insight to determine for myself precisely what I did and how I did it. So, now I can explain it to you exactly.

An example: explaining the situation as concrete as possible. Even though this is a fictional example. Well, fictional, let me tell you that this situation already frequently occurred. But because I don't want anyone out there on this earth claiming I am talking about his or her dog ... thus as fictitious and concrete as possible.

Imagine, the postman comes every day around 9 am. Max, the barking dog, enjoy this moment. As every summer day, he runs, barking, through the open porch door to the garden-gate that is closed.

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 Louis, our mailman, has known Max now for years and therefore knows what's up. So, Louis, trying to maintain the neighborhood peace as much as possible, has developed his own strategy for Max. Because, after all, not all neighbors liked that dog barking.

So, Louis, assessing the situation long before, had the letters and the newspaper already taken in his left hand. He comes with his squeaky bike driving around the corner. Right, the squeak of the bike is the trigger Max was waiting for ... so he runs barking through the porch door,...

Louis, brakes with his right hand, jumps off, then opens the mailbox with his right hand, passing on the letters and the newspaper from his left hand to his right hand, quickly throwing the mail in our mailbox.

Louis hops back on his bike, start pedaling like crazy, at the precise moment barking Max ends up with his snout between the bars of the gate.

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Max barks like crazy, Louis flees. Max continues for minutes as a wild boar.

Max won once again. A potential intruder chased away. And this has been going on for two months.

Recapitulate: Max wants to do the right thing, Louis wants to do the right thing. The situation is getting worse every day!

Knowing Right, the moment when I take control of this situation and I teach Max clearly, precisely and exactly the behavior I expect of him.

And how to do this yourself at home is exactly what I'm going to explain to you... Knowing Right.

The next morning, I make for sure, at 9 am I'm already near the gates, just weeding. Actually keeping myself occupy until Louis comes along. And this is important because this is step one in the process! I am NOT waiting for the postman, I'm just working in the garden.

The moment the squeaky bicycle comes towards our house and Max hurries barking towards fences, I step with determination up to the gate.

In other words, I'm the first at the garden gates, before Louis and before Max. This is step two.

I lean against the fences, looking right in the direction of Max and draw an imaginary line on the ground about half a meter from me. This is the line Max cannot cross. This is step three.

I close my eyes, relax completely and see in my imagination how Max just before the imaginary line behaves and relaxes. This is step 4.

I open my eyes, say hello to Louis and turn resolutely to the upcoming Max: "sit," I say with a calm, loud and firm voice. I imagine myself that Max will just do that. I keep repeating this command to calm until Max sits relaxed. That is until I see that Max's muscles are relaxed!

Listen, I've got control, thus, if I say "sit" then that means, "sit",period. I give this command with 100% conviction and focus, and the result could be  surprising to you. This is step five.

The sixth and final step is very simple. I give Max the command that he can play in the garden. Only, I remain standing between Max and Louis. As a boss, I have the control here. And I'm greeting Louis from now on, not Max.

If you have practiced this for a few days you will experience, you've probably have some time to chat with the mailman about the weather. Just let the postman pace the letters and the newspaper in the mailbox. Explain the postman you also want Max to stop barking and that you have taken control over Max's situation.

You'll be amazed how quickly Mag settles down and you will be amazed how relaxed Louis brings the post.


Have confidence, create a powerful bond with your dog

Bryan

PS If you still want more information about North Vancouver Knowing Right Dog Psychology Center, click here.

Go To Tip 4

Tip 2: Stay calm when you correct your barking dog:

Consistently barking dogs can be quite irritating. So if your dog barks, I can imagine that you, yourself, are quite frustrated. Certainly, if the barking bothers you in the activity you are doing at that moment. Or should I say, were doing, because your concentration is already gone, isn't it?

Okay, so frustration peaks. And with this energy boost in your body, you're going to exhort the barking dog to be quiet. In summary, you, a bundle of energy; your barking dog, another barrel full of energy ...

 You guessed it. Your dog sees you coming. You call, he thinks ... Oh, boss comes playing. It turns out for him, you also have more than enough energy running through veins from your frustration and anger. The following will occur:

A Hunting Ritual:  The One With Most Energy (you) Encourages The Pack (your barking dog so) To Go For A Hunt And..

And that is just what your dog does, even more barking.

Without knowing, you've just triggered a basic instinct of dogs. Knowing Right, I'd say so. Know that your dog reflects your energy. Your frustration or anger = a lot of energy. So, your dog follows = he, a lot of energy.

Oh, the dog feels no frustration or no anger. No, he just feels that his energy-flow is somehow, how should I put it, blocked. So, he needs to release of that block.

And what does a dog with a lot of pent up energy. Right, making sure that this energy begins to flow again. How does he do that, yes indeed, by barking or biting.

Now, the worst part of this story. I, Bryan, have known this all along and sometimes I still end up in exactly the same situation as some of my clients. But one is never too old to learn.

Therefore, if one of our dogs barks too much. I stop doing what I'm doing, give myself a minute or two (okay, sometimes three) to let my anger drain. Then go down as the epitome of calmness and apply tip one from a stable and safe feeling.

The feeling you have when addressing your barking dog, is decisive. Cool, right.

Really, I dig much deeper into the mirror-behavior of the dog. That's for another time. Unless of course you want to ask me a question. Then, I recommend, go to the contact page, and submit your question. I'll answer, for sure.


Have confidence, create a powerful bond with your dog

Bryan

PS If you still want more information about North Vancouver Knowing Right Dog Psychology Center, click here.

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Go to Tip 3

5 Tips To Stop Dogs Barking For Good, Even The Neighbors Hound... Because you want to be a proud owner again...

Okay, barking dogs...well, it's a natural dog behavior. And let me create clarity here. So, if your dog is excited and barks, yes, quite possibly. Enjoy these moments, a few times a few minutes each day. Only, if your dog keep on barking, then you have a problem, a dog behavior problem.

Therefore, I give some tips you can already try out, including on the next door dog... and you try out the solutions sequentially. In other words, use tip one for at least a week, preferably slightly longer.

Sometimes it helps to repeat the tip for a few days to stop your dogs barks. Oh, and because repetition helps because your dog already has built up a habit to keep on barking ... and he obviously get benefit out of it ... otherwise he would have stopped a long time ago.

If it turns out that it does not work, then just get on with tip two, same routine, and then ... you got it?

If it turns, reading this text is too much trouble, go straight to tip 5 and read this tip to the end. Hell, reread this tip at least three times.

Because their I giving away what dog whisperers/dog behaviorists like myself use to assist clients, in 79% of cases with barking dogs, in a first consultation, that ACTUALLY helps owners to regain their pride IMMEDIATELY. No matter how helpless, insecure, frustrated and angry they might feel.

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TIP 1: Correct the behavior of your barking dog and  follow up:

Make it clear to your dog that he should stop barking. Use your gaze, body movement and a sound.

For example, my girlfriend used all three at once in this manner: she drew large round eyes, raised her right index finger in the air and said with a heavy, low bass voice, "What's up!" She had the allures of a kindergarten teacher from the '60s that corrects a four-year-old.

Just outlining the situation here, eh. You know what I mean, right? Perhaps you have your own way, so to speak, to be mad the dog ...

Only, beware. It is quite possible that the dog stops briefly and then starts again to bark. Logically, his body relaxed, but his brain was still alert.

Be patient. Repeat what you just did ... look, finger and voice ... give him some time to surrender completely. And only then go on with what you were doing before the barking began.

Go for Tip 2

Feeling Down. Cuttle Me And I Love You Always. That's Why Im The Most Beautiful Dog Ever!

Jesus, don't shave me, please.

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Call me a German Spitz, before immigrating to America. Now I perform in the circus. Anything to grab your attention.

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Well, that's what's a companion's for. Making you laugh and giving you that fussy, warm and cosy feeling

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Vote for me!

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Adore my high intelligence and inquisitive nature, that's why I will love to "investigate". If I find something very interesting I will often want you, owner, or handler, to investigate as well, and will at times, not let the "matter" go until you comply.

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I will often find the problem and call you. When it comes to children, for instance, if a baby or child is crying, I will want you to see what the problem is and will not stop "worrying" until you do.

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I being so "tuned in". The one characteristics that makes me a desirable breed around children and elderly folks.

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General Appearance
The American Eskimo Dog, a loving companion dog, presents a
picture of strength and agility, alertness and beauty. It is a small to
medium-size Nordic type dog, always white, or white with biscuit
cream. The American Eskimo Dog is compactly built and well
balanced, with good substance, and an alert smooth gait. The face is
Nordic type with erect triangular shaped ears and distinctive black
points (lips. nose. and eye rims). The white double coat consists of a
short, dense undercoat, with a longer guard hair growing through it
forming the outer coat, which is straight with no curl or wave. The
coat is thicker and longer around the neck and chest forming a lionlike
ruff, which is more noticeable on dogs than on bitches. The rump
and hind legs down to the hocks are also covered with thicker, longer
hair forming the characteristic breeches. The richly plumed tail is
carried loosely on the back.

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Temperament
The American Eskimo Dog is intelligent, alert, and friendly, although
slightly conservative. It is never overly shy nor aggressive, and such
dogs are to be severely penalized in the show ring. At home it is an
excellent watchdog, sounding a warning bark to announce the arrival
of any stranger. It is protective of its home and family, although It
does not threaten to bite or attack people. The American Eskimo Dog
learns new tasks quickly and is eager to please.
Size, Proportion, Substance
Size: there are three separate size divisions of the American Eskimo
Dog (all measurements are heights at withers)
Toy: 9 inches (23 cm) to and including 12 inches (30.5 cm).
Miniature: over 12 inches (30.5 cm) to and including 15 inches (38 cm).
Standard: over 15 inches (38 cm) to and including 19 inches (48 cm).
There is no preference for size within each division.
Proportion: length of back from point of shoulder to point of
buttocks is slightly greater than height at withers, an approximate 1.1
to 1 ratio.

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Substance
the American Eskimo Dog is strong and compactly built
with adequate bone.

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Coat & Colour
Coat: the American Eskimo Dog has a stand-off, double coat consisting
of a dense undercoat and a longer coat of guard hair growing through it
to form the outer coat. It is straight with no curl or wave. There is a
pronounced ruff around the neck which is more noticeable on dogs than
bitches. Outer part of the ear should be well covered with short, smooth
hair, with longer tufts of hair growing in front of ear openings. Hair on
muzzle should be short and smooth. The backs of the front legs should
be well feathered, as are the rear legs down to the hock. The tail is
covered profusely with long hair. THERE IS TO BE NO TRIMMING
OF THE WHISKERS OR BODY COAT AND SUCH TRIMMING
WILL BE SEVERELY PENALIZED. The only permissible trimming
is to neaten the feet and the backs of the rear pasterns.
Color: pure white is the preferred color, although white with biscuit
cream is permissible. Presence of biscuit cream should not outweigh
consideration of type, structure, or temperament. The skin of the
American Eskimo Dog is pink -or gray.

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Head
Expression is keen, intelligent, and alert. Eyes: are not fully round,
but slightly oval. They should be set well apart, and not slanted,
prominent or bulging. Tear stain, unless severe, is not to be faulted.
Presence of tear stain should not outweigh consideration of type,
structure, or temperament. Dark to medium brown is the preferred
eye color. Eye rims are black to dark brown. Eyelashes are white.
Ears: should conform to head size and be triangular, slightly blunttipped,
held erect, set on high yet well apart and blend softly with the
head. Skull: is slightly crowned and softly wedge-shaped, with widest
breadth between the ears. The stop is well defined, although not
abrupt. The muzzle is broad, with length not exceeding the length of
the skull although it may be slightly shorter. Nose pigment is black to
dark brown. Lips are thin and tight, black to dark brown in color. The
jaw should be strong with a full complement of close fitting teeth. The
bite is scissors, or pincer.

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Neck
The neck is carried proudly erect, well set on medium in length and in
a strong, graceful arch.

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Forequarters
Forequarters are well angulated. The shoulder is firmly set and has
adequate muscle but is not overdeveloped. The shoulder blades are
well laid back and slant 45° with the horizontal. At the point of
shoulder the shoulder blade forms an approximate right angle with the
upper arm. The legs are parallel and straight to the pasterns. The
pasterns are strong and flexible with a slant of about 20°: Length of
leg in proportion to the body. Dewclaws on the front legs may be
removed at the owner's discretion: if present, they are not to be
faulted. Feet are oval, compact, tightly knit and well padded with hair.
Toes are well arched. Pads are black to dark brown, tough and deeply
cushioned. Toenails are white.

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Body
The topline is level. The body of the American Eskimo Dog is strong
and compact, but not cobby. The chest is deep and broad with wellsprung
ribs. Depth of chest extends approximately to point of elbows.
Slight tuck-up of belly just behind the ribs. The back is straight,
broad, level, and muscular. The loin is strong and well-muscled. The
American Eskimo Dog is neither too long nor too short coupled.

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Hindquarters
Hindquarters are well angulated. The lay of the pelvis is
approximately 30° to the horizontal. The upper thighs are well
developed. Stifles are well bent. Hock joints are well let down and
firm. The rear pasterns are straight. Legs are parallel from the rear
and turn neither in nor out. Feet are as described for the front legs.
Dewclaws are not present on the hind legs.

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Tail
The tail is set moderately high and reaches approximately to the point
of hock when down. It is carried loosely on the back, although it may
be dropped when at rest.

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Gait
The American Eskimo Dog shall trot, not pace. The gait is agile, bold,
well balanced, and frictionless, with good forequarter reach and good
hindquarter drive. As speed increases, the American Eskimo Dog will
single track with the legs converging toward the center line of gravity
while the back remains firm, strong, and level.

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Stay Together Or I'll Bark. Love Is Togetherness, Isn't It, That's Why I'm The Most Beautiful!

They are just cruel to me!

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And I know what to do about that.... Give me a minute, will you...

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Run, baby, run; that's what I like.

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Woef, Woef, WOOOEF and get together for now and forever.

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I was sailing already in 1514 when my master, Kazimierz Grabski, a Polish merchant, brought us six to Scotland. And we impressed the frikking hell out of these Gaelic folks, just doing our stuff and
KEEPING THEM AND THEIR SHEEP TOGETHER,  got it! That's why the adopted me in Scotland.

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It's about time you're going to adopt me and recognize the single most important characteristic you humans can learn from me, ... Yes, you know it already, don't you. Just think about it; would their be war, would their be depression, would their be
No, sir, just one happy world-family sticking together.

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Now, I love a kid... although I have to admit I love a flock of them even more. Just give me the price, eh, what do you say?

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Ok, people talk about us, and even more since I won Best in Show at Crufts in 1989. So, I work, I show and I love kids, lots of them....

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Whatyou say, eh, eh....

More information, just read this. Hey, and it's not me saying that, you know. I only kept this information together on this page fore you. So, share it and keep it together. Love dude.

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Origin and Purpose
One of the oldest of the British herding breeds, the Bearded Collie has
for centuries been the Scottish hill shepherd’s dog, used to hunt and
gather free-ranging sheep on the Highlands. The breed was also popular
as a cattle drover. Both jobs required a hardy constitution and
intelligence, initiative, strength, stamina, and speed.

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General Appearance
This is a lean active dog, longer than it is high in an approximate
proportion of 5:4, measured from point of chest to point of buttock.
Bitches may be slightly longer. The dog, though strongly made, should
show plenty of daylight under the body and should not look too heavy. A
bright, inquiring expression is a distinctive feature of the breed.
Characteristics and Temperament
The Bearded Collie must be alert and self-confident, and should be lively
and active. The temperament should be that of a steady, intelligent
working dog and must show no signs of nervousness or aggression.

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Size
Ideal height at the shoulder: dogs, 21-22 inches (53-56 cm); bitches, 20-
21 inches (51-53 cm). Overall quality and proportions should be
considered before size but excessive variation from the ideal height
should be discouraged.

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Coat
The coat must be double with the undercoat soft, furry and close. The
outer coat should be flat, harsh and strong, shaggy, free from woolliness
and curl though a slight wave is permissible. The length and density of
the hair should be sufficient to provide a protective coat and to enhance
the shape of the dog, but not enough to obscure the natural lines of the
body. The adult coat may break along the spine, but must not be
artificially parted. The coat must not be trimmed in any way. On the
head, the bridge of the nose should be sparsely covered with hair which
should be slightly longer on the sides just to cover the lips. From the
cheeks, the lower lips and under the chin, the coat increases in length
towards the chest, forming the typical beard.

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Colour
Bearded Collies are born dark, pure black, brown, blue or fawn, with or
without white markings. The base colours mature to any shade of black,
grey, blue, brown, or fawn, with the coat usually having a mixture of
many shades at once and individual hairs showing bands of light and
dark. Grey hairs may be lightly interspersed with all colours. Where white
occurs, it should only appear on the foreface, as a blaze on the skull, on
the tip of the tail, on the chest, legs and feet and, if round the collar, the
roots of the white hair should not extend behind the shoulder. White
should not appear above the hocks on the outside of the hind legs. Slight
tan markings are acceptable on the eyebrows, inside the ears, on the
cheeks, under the root of the tail, and on the legs where white joins the
main colour.

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Head
The head should be in proportion to the size of the dog. The skull is
broad and flat, the distance between stop and occiput being equal to the
width between the orifices of the ears. The muzzle is strong and equal
in length to the distance between the stop and the occiput, the whole
effect being that of a dog with strength of muzzle and plenty of brain
room. The stop should be moderate. The nose is large and square.
Pigmentation of nose leather, lips, and eye rims follows coat colour at
birth and should be of a solid colour without spots or patches. The eyes
should be set widely apart and are large, soft and affectionate, but not
protruding. The eyebrows are arched up and forward but are not so long
as to obscure the eyes. Eyes should tone with coat in colour. Born blues
and fawn will have lighter eyes with all shades of coat than born blacks
or browns. The ears are of medium size and drooping. When the dog is
alert, the ears lift at the base, level with, but not above, the top of the
skull, increasing the apparent breadth of the skull. The teeth are large
and white, the incisors of the lower jaw fitting tightly behind those of the
upper jaw. However, a level bite is acceptable. A full set of forty-two teeth
is desirable.

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Neck
The neck must be of a fair length, muscular, and slightly arched.
Forequarters
The shoulders should slope well back, a line drawn through the centre
of the shoulder blade should form a right angle (90 degrees) with the
humerus. The shoulder blades at the withers should only be separated
by the vertebrae but must slope outwards from there sufficiently to
accommodate the desired spring of rib. The legs are straight and vertical,
with good bone, and covered with shaggy hair all-round. The pasterns
should be flexible without weakness.

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Body
The length of the back should come from the length of the rib cage and
not that of the loin. The ribs are well sprung but angled back, making the
rib cage appear flat, and the chest is deep, giving plenty of heart and lung
room. The back must be level and the loins should be strong. The level
back blends smoothly into the curve of the rump and must not fall away
in croup.

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Hindquarters
The hindquarters are well muscled with good second thighs, well-bent
stifles and low hocks. Below the hock, the leg falls at a right angle to the
ground and, in normal stance, will be just behind a line vertically below
the point of the buttock. The distance between the hocks should
approximate the distance from hock to ground.

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Feet
The feet are oval in shape with the soles well padded. The toes are
arched and close together, well covered with hair including between the
pads.

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Tail
The tail is set low, without kink or twist, and is long enough for the end
of the bone to reach at least the point of the hock. It is carried low with
an upward swirl at the tip while standing. When the dog is excited or in
motion the tail may be extended or raised, but must not be carried
forward over the back.

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Gait
Seen from the side, a correctly moving dog appears to flow across the
ground with the minimum of effort. Movement should be supple,
smooth, and long-reaching, with good driving power in the hindquarters
and feet lifted just enough to clear the ground. The forelegs should track
smoothly and straight. Each hind leg should move in line with the foreleg
on the same side. The back should remain level and firm

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